Koh Lanta

Koh Lanta

After we reluctantly left Ao Nang, we headed south to Koh Lanta. During my months of research while planning this trip, I kept seeing mixed reviews about staying on the islands of Thailand. Many places—like Phuket—have a vibrant nightlife, which is ideal for some people, but I was hoping to find something more family-friendly and quiet. Koh Lanta absolutely lived up to its reputation.

We opted to hire a shuttle instead of taking the ferry from Ao Nang. If you’re traveling with multiple people and luggage, this felt like the better (and less stressful) option. The drive from Ao Nang takes a couple of hours and includes a short, mandatory ferry to get fully onto the island. Overall, it’s a very easy trip.

Where We Stayed

We’re not usually the kind of travelers who stay at all-inclusive resorts. But because Koh Lanta has fewer accommodation options—and because we were traveling over Christmas—we decided to stay at the Rawi Warin Resort and Spa. This place did not disappoint. I may not be a connoisseur of five-star hotels, but I truly loved staying here with the girls.

The food was amazing (and we are big foodies), the staff was incredibly friendly, there were tons of activities for the kids, and I had the best Thai massage of my life at their spa. They also hosted a special Christmas celebration with delicious food, live performances, and a visit from a very beachy Santa. The girls had an absolute blast. 10/10.

One thing that surprised both Jason and me was that while Koh Lanta was exactly the quiet spot we hoped for, it also meant there wasn’t much within walking distance from our hotel. The Rawi Warin sits right on the beach, so you can walk along the sand, but there are only a handful of restaurants nearby (all with amazing Thai food—no complaints there). There’s also no Grab on the island, which makes transportation more expensive.

There are a couple of practical things worth mentioning about staying at the Rawi Warin. First: the laundry service at the hotel was surprisingly expensive. Up until this point on our trip, laundry had cost us around five dollars for a few loads, so the hotel pricing felt steep.

Instead, we walked across the street and had all of our laundry done for about seven dollars total. When you’re traveling in a hot, beachy place and everyone is sweaty and stinky after a day of exploring, you end up accumulating quite the laundry pile. This option was so much easier (and better) than sitting in a laundromat for hours waiting for clothes to wash and dry.

Another unexpected perk of the Rawi Warin is that they also own a local bakery just down the street called Auntie Mae Bakery and Café. It was the perfect place to escape the heat and enjoy a really well-crafted baked treat. I wasn’t expecting pastries that could even remotely compete with Paris—but I was proven wrong. Thailand, as it turns out, has excellent pastries, and not just at Auntie Mae.

No regrets here!

I now understand why so many people book all-inclusive resorts here and don’t plan on leaving the property—getting around the island takes a bit more planning. That’s still not really our style, so we found ways to explore without relying on taxis.

Tin Adventure Snorkeling Tour

If you book a tour on Koh Lanta, most companies will pick you up and drop you off directly at your hotel—this is included in the tour price and saves money on transportation. Our first tour was a five-island snorkeling excursion, and it did not disappoint.

The staff was incredibly friendly (noticing a trend on this island), and each snorkeling spot felt completely different, with its own unique underwater scenery. At each stop, our guides would dock the boat and give us about 30–45 minutes to jump in and explore before moving on to the next location.

For lunch, we stopped at Ko Rok Nai, where the staff provided fresh fruit and massaman curry—which was surprisingly delicious. The beach here was hands down the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. The water was so calm that the girls could have snorkeled all day. If you’re in this area, this tour is an absolute must—just don’t forget to reapply sunscreen.

Spice and Knives Cooking Class & Organic Garden

Jason found a wonderful cooking class run by a husband-and-wife team, with ingredients sourced directly from their garden. When you sign up, you get to choose from a wide variety of dishes—which was especially impressive considering there were about ten people in the class, all cooking different meals at the same time.

Celly making massaman curry paste!

Cosette working on her green curry paste!

We never felt neglected or rushed, and they were incredibly accommodating and enthusiastic about having the girls there. One of the highlights was that Cosette and Celly got to make curry paste completely from scratch. Even better, after all their hard work, they got to sit down and enjoy the meal they cooked.

Another unexpected bonus was meeting other travelers during the class. They were so kind to our kids and genuinely seemed to enjoy having them around. I wish I’d gotten their names so I could thank them for being part of such a special experience.

Exploring Koh Lanta by Car

For our last full day in Koh Lanta, we decided to hire a driver to take us around the island. This ended up being both cheaper and far more efficient than trying to piece together transportation on our own—especially since taxis on the island can be pricey.

Our driver took us to the old town, the market street, and a few different beaches, which made it easy to see more of the island without feeling rushed. If you’re hoping to do some last-minute shopping, the old town is a great place to wander. There are lots of small shops to explore, along with some really good restaurants.

We also stumbled upon a cafe called Grandma’s House selling a supposedly social-media-famous mango crumble—kind of like a peach cobbler. TikTok-famous or not, it was genuinely delicious and a perfect way to end our time on the island.

Until Next Time, Koh Lanta

Koh Lanta is the perfect place to visit if you’re looking for somewhere quiet and unhurried. The fast pace of everyday life softens here. I’m certain that at some point, we’ll find our way back.

Welcome to Thailand!

We arrived in Thailand after a long day of traveling—from Da Nang Airport in Vietnam, through Bangkok, then landing in Krabi, Thailand, before shuttling to Ao Nang Beach. The girls are absolute travel rockstars at this point.

We stayed at The Otter House in Ao Nang, and I have to say: if you’re ever staying in the area, I would highly recommend this place. The rooms were very comfortable and quiet—a welcome reprieve after the loud atmosphere in Vietnam.

We had a rough itinerary, but I decided to do a little more research into activities in the area—which led me straight down a massive rabbit hole of motherly panic. I had already mentally prepared myself for things like not drinking the tap water, putting on bug spray, and watching out for box jellyfish. But somewhere in my research, I stumbled across information about Thailand having a public health issue with stray dogs and rabies. To make matters worse, multiple tourists on Reddit had shared stories of run-ins—or had watched someone else get attacked.

If you’re a mother, you know exactly the kind of worry/anxiety I’m describing. Jason had to talk me into relaxing a bit, but I still decided to carry an umbrella with me the next day—just in case. I was on high alert.

Spoiler alert: we are all okay and did not get attacked by wild dogs or monkeys.

Highlights of Ao Nang, Thailand

Tan Café
Jason found a lovely hostel/café in Ao Nang called Tan, where you can get the best drinks and breakfast/brunch foods. We don’t usually return to the same restaurants when traveling, but this place was irresistible.

Food never looks as good in photos so you’re going to just have to trust me on this one.

Emerald Lagoon Hike (Sa Phra Nang)
We had researched this hike beforehand and completely ignored the fact that people rated it as “difficult.” I mean… c’mon. We’re from Colorado. How bad could it be?

“Hiking” back down.

As it turns out, the “hike” is literally a vertical climb. Not that it scared us Colorado people, but I was a little surprised. Pictures truly don’t do it justice. I would definitely recommend doing this hike—but with caution. Our kids are confident climbers, but you still have to stay focused and be aware of others around you who may not understand climbing etiquette—slipping, dropping things, kicking rocks, etc. Be careful and you’ll have fun.

We went to the viewpoint overlooking Railay Beach and then ventured toward the lagoon at the end of the hike. This section became so steep and slick—and several adults were visibly stuck—that we decided against letting the girls continue. Mind you, there is zero safety gear. If you slip, you fall.

Phra Nang Cave Shrine
After the hike, we found the Phra Nang Cave Shrine—aka the PENIS CAVE. (So sorry if that’s offensive…but it is literally a bunch of wooden penises.)

Yes, I know. SO immature.

If you know the girls, you know they found this absolutely hilarious and would probably rank it as one of the overall highlights of the trip. I was a little surprised by how many white yogis took the shrine very seriously—burning incense and everything. No judgment if that’s your thing… I still think it’s funny.

RAILAY BEACH SWIMMING
Railay Beach—home of the penis shrine—is just a quick longboat ride from Ao Nang Beach. There’s a short walk to the beach (the hike is along the same path), and then you arrive at a vast stretch of sand that’s perfect for swimming. The views here are absolutely incredible—and if you’re a climber, this spot offers tons of opportunities to scale the karsts.

Tiger Cave Temple
Grab is the Uber of Thailand, and it’s incredibly convenient. The Dragon Temple is about 30 minutes from Ao Nang Beach and well worth the trip to hike the temple steps. Beware of the monkeys—they can and will steal snacks, water bottles, or anything else that looks even remotely appealing.

Before the monkeys…

We managed to avoid them for the most part—one jumped onto Jason’s backpack but couldn’t find a way in. Another traveler wasn’t as fortunate and began screaming as a monkey pounced on her and grabbed her water bottle.

FIRE PERFORMANCE
Every night when we returned to Ao Nang Beach, the girls were delighted to find a fire show. Performers ranged from what looked like seven years old to forty. It was such a fun way to end the day.

Jason was the only one brave enough to not run away when the sparks went flying.

NIGHT MARKET
Ao Nang has a lively night scene where you can either find adults trying to relive their college glory days by getting absolutely wrecked and annoying everyone around them or you can stroll the streets, grab some mango sticky rice, and enjoy the atmosphere of the small night market.

This area reminded me of a much milder Playa del Carmen. Even though I’m not into party culture, I was still able to really enjoy the nightlife here with the girls.

ELEPHANT SANCTUARIES
The girls and I really wanted to see elephants. If you didn’t already know, elephants are in my top two favorite animals—the other being pigs, but back to elephants.

There are many “sanctuaries” in this area, and many advertise themselves as cruelty-free and humane while still allowing tourists to bathe with the elephants—which I find both unsanitary and unsettling. I understand that many of these animals were rescued from truly abusive situations, but it still didn’t sit right with me to support this kind of tourism. So… no elephants this time.

UNTIL NEXT TIME…

We wish we had more time in Ao Nang. There are endless opportunities for hikes and day trips to nearby islands from this beach. Next time, we’ll definitely be staying longer.

How Salzburg Spoiled My Children

Give a monkey a banana and it'll be thrilled: I have a banana!

Give a monkey two bananas, then take one away, and it'll be furious: You took my banana!

Our children are monkeys, and Salzburg is 17 bananas.

Bike path on the Salzach river, just outside our apartment

This stunning city looks a bit like Italy, thanks to the influence of Italian architects in the 17th century, but runs with the precision of a Swiss watch. There's a certain predictability here: 500 meters to the next Kirche (church), 250 meters to the next Würstelstand (for bratwurst & kraut), there's probably a Schloß (palace or manor house) on that hill over there, and if you're swimming at a lake and spot a flash of white in the surrounding forest, I'll bet you my modest American swim trunks it's a cheery, naked Austrian.

The spectacular Waldbad Anif, a swimming lake south of Salzburg. Clothing was optional, but fun was mandatory.

But the most predictable thing of all must be the Spielplatze (playgrounds). Reliably, there's one at every country Biergarten, and at every park, there are 4 or 5 at the zoo, a gigantic one at Hellbrun (a picturesque palace), and the local mall (Europark) possesses the most glorious indoor play area our girls have ever feasted their yearning eyes upon.

The most adorable protons in the galaxy

Derek gives the girls a spin at the riverside park, Spielplatz Franz-Josef-Kai

The girls undertaking some Spartanesque training. Not the castle wall top-roping in the background.

The stellar indoor play area at the Europark mall. Remarkably clean, and ideal for rainy days.

Cosette mans the fort at a Biergarten in Marktschellenberg, Germany, a short bus ride south of Salzburg

The surplus of Spielplatze has transformed our normally contented children into connoisseurs. They're Spielplatze snobs. The playground 50 meters from our apartment (Spielplatz Franz-Josef-Kai ) was once adequate, but no longer: Cosette has scornfully observed that it doesn't even have a proper zipline. And why, pray tell, are there only two slides? Waiting in line for the slide is SO Vienna. C'mon, mom and dad. Take me to a REAL park.

The Hellbrun zipline, an eternal fount of fun. Those are the Bavarian Alps in the background.

On a hot day, this mist machine is pure ecstasy

There is one place of which they never tire: Hellbrunn, of Sound of Music fame. It's the place where 'Sixteen Going on Seventeen' was sung, which forever doomed an innocent pavilion to throngs of shrieking 12-going-on-13-year-old girls. So perfectly does Hellbrun meld the interests of children, parents, lovers, runners, bikers, crossfitters (great pull-up station), and all humans, that I can only assume it was designed in a lab by the most brilliant urban planners of our time. Or, maybe, it's just been around for 415 years, slowly adapting to the changing needs of a growing community. Who knows, but it has all the things: interactive water features, a giant kids' zipline (the source of Cosette's discontent elsewhere), grassy meadows adorned with meticulously planted tulips in the shadow of the Alps, and an adjacent zoo, so if you tire of playing, you can watch rhinos frolick in green pastures. It's just impossibly awesome. You should come, and bring everyone you love.

Our transportation whilst in Salzburg. We LOVE that Croozer trailer, and we'll probably get one when we arrive back in Boulder.

Wetlands in the Hellbrun zoo, featuring deer, pelicans and more

This rhino goes to the hills when his heart is lonely

Cosette examines her adopted mane

A moment of calm before these flamingos began squawking ferociously

This piglet is one of Chelsea's favorite things. She swooned.

Hey Salzburg: You showed my kids that there are always at least 17 playgrounds within biking distance. That gourmet restaurants in mountain towns usually have play areas where kids can roam while parents nurse that third pint of Weissbier. That a grazing rhino and a flock of frisky flamingos might live in that lush forest, right over there. That swimming pools, playgrounds, and picnic areas can all coexist in the same 200 square meters.

Two shallow pools connected by a gently sloping slide at Aya Hallenbad. The girls LOVED it.

We can't stay here forever, Salzburg, but maybe we can take a bit of you home with us. Perhaps we open a coffee shop with an adjacent Spielplatz in Boulder, CO. And yes, Cosette: there will be a zipline.

Kinder in Wien (Children in Vienna)

Celly practices waving to her Viennese subjects

The transition from Cascais to Vienna was a mild shock.

Gone were the beaches. Gone was the balmy clime. Gone were the astoundingly cheap prices of apples, strawberries, and eggs. The humid and boisterous seaside air had been replaced by an atmosphere chill and still, which occasionally smelt funny. Chelsea, who had visited Vienna before, was thrilled to introduce me to a wondrous place where she had formed so many memories. But as we slowly our way up Leopoldgasse (that's Leopold Street) toward our home for the next 3 weeks, apartment buildings (albeit beautiful ones) sprawling before us, I couldn't shake the feeling that we had left Cascais, our gem, prematurely.

Chelsea sensed that I needed convincing. I sensed that her optimism was partly forced. She too was experiencing beach withdrawals. We -- especially the girls -- had it SO GOOD. How will you compare, Vienna?

To which, Vienna replied:

“Geduld, dumme Amerikaner.
(Patience, silly Americans)”

— Vienna

It began with the Easter Market at Schönbrunn Palace

Giant eggs = easy hunting

This unhappy chicken must lay giant eggs and carry dwarves

At the market, Cosette and Celly relished in a totally free, totally wonderful scavenger hunt.

One of many clever scavenger hunt activities

Cosette solves a puzzle to earn a prize!

How Easter is done

Enamored with their winnings, in the Schönbrunn Palace courtyard

Schönbrunn Palace is absolutely enormous. Inside, there's a children's museum. In the backyard, a zoo. We started with the museum.

Powdered wigs are great for dress-up! Or, you know, concealing syphilis. 

Those boots were made for rulin'!

Presumably, the painter of this remarkable portrait was summarily executed

Children are encouraged to place magnetic 'leeches' on this smiling patient. Science!

Once we had exhausted the children's museum, we ventured into the Schönbrunn zoo:

Cosette found a snipe!

Seeing a giant panda in downtown Vienna provoked feelings of awe and sadness

Something we came to love about Vienna: There are parks everywhere. Kids need these spaces, and they need them frequently. The Austrians really get this. This colorful, lovely playground was in the middle of the zoo.

Post-Zoo, we paid a nominal €5 for a marzipan sculpting workshop for Cosette. She was so focused, which was especially warranted because all the instructions came in German.

The final product! An Easter bunny (see its cute cocoa-tipped ears?)

All of this -- Schönbrunn Palace, the Easter market, the children's museum, the zoo, and the marzipan sculpting -- happened in the same day. If you don't find that remarkable, you're probably not a parent.

The truth is that Vienna is just remarkably livable and family friendly. Even as you're walking in the shadow of imposing, ancient (by our standards) buildings, it feels as if the city has been shaped by the needs of families. Exhausted? There's probably a park nearby. Hungry? Most restaurants will welcome your kiddos with a smile, and give them free lollipops on the way out. We felt uniquely prioritized in Vienna. We sure don't expect to be spoiled by our host cities, but Vienna has spoiled us.

“Wien, Wien, nur du allein! (Vienna, Vienna, only you alone!)”

— Rudolf Sieczynski

Kids in Cascais

We're shocked and delighted that we discovered Cascais.

Back in November 2017, when this family Eurotrip was nothing more than a bunch of neurons hastily rearranging their connections in our brains, we thought Lisbon 'would be nice.' I checked www.nomadlist.com -- a brilliant compendium of all the attributes one could care about in a foreign place -- and Lisbon was safe, had fast Internet, was relatively warm, and (crucially) had beaches. All boxes checked.

Next step: find proper lodging. I studied VRBO listings, knowing that our rental must be within easy walking distance to--

1. A park and/or the beach
2. A suitable grocery store
3. Good restaurants
4. Bonus: kids' libraries, museums, indoor play areas

Scanning the listings in map view, I found one that was near a park and a few blocks from the beach, but it wasn't in Lisbon proper. Situated in 'villa' (i.e. a city that yearns for smallness) called Cascais, It would be about a 40-minute trip into Lisbon via train. At the time, this didn't seem quite ideal, but the 600 square foot apartment seemed appropriate in every other regard. We booked it from Feb-28 - Mar-29.

When we arrived, we started walking.

3 minutes away, we found Ribeira beach --

Ribeira Beach

Across the cobblestone street, the carousel at Visconde da Luz--

Carousel in Jardim Visconde da Luz

A 7 minute walk through streets as tight and lovely as those in Venice, this giant, clean, modern playground, at Parque Marechal Carmona

Parque Marechal Carmona

And literally next door (far too close), to the delight of Cosette and Celestine, delicious gelato.

Gelato in the Cascais Town Hall square

And to the delight of Chelsea and me, a restaurant specializing in octopus (polvo) worked their culinary magic a few blocks away.

Grilled polvo (octopus) at the excellent Polvo Vadio

Somehow, we stumbled upon the most perfect place we could imagine. Twenty-nine days of beaches, carousels, playgrounds, and polvo. Pure Portuguese bliss.