Kinder in Wien (Children in Vienna)
Celly practices waving to her Viennese subjects
The transition from Cascais to Vienna was a mild shock.
Gone were the beaches. Gone was the balmy clime. Gone were the astoundingly cheap prices of apples, strawberries, and eggs. The humid and boisterous seaside air had been replaced by an atmosphere chill and still, which occasionally smelt funny. Chelsea, who had visited Vienna before, was thrilled to introduce me to a wondrous place where she had formed so many memories. But as we slowly our way up Leopoldgasse (that's Leopold Street) toward our home for the next 3 weeks, apartment buildings (albeit beautiful ones) sprawling before us, I couldn't shake the feeling that we had left Cascais, our gem, prematurely.
Chelsea sensed that I needed convincing. I sensed that her optimism was partly forced. She too was experiencing beach withdrawals. We -- especially the girls -- had it SO GOOD. How will you compare, Vienna?
To which, Vienna replied:
“Geduld, dumme Amerikaner.
(Patience, silly Americans)”
It began with the Easter Market at Schönbrunn Palace
Giant eggs = easy hunting
This unhappy chicken must lay giant eggs and carry dwarves
At the market, Cosette and Celly relished in a totally free, totally wonderful scavenger hunt.
One of many clever scavenger hunt activities
Cosette solves a puzzle to earn a prize!
How Easter is done
Enamored with their winnings, in the Schönbrunn Palace courtyard
Schönbrunn Palace is absolutely enormous. Inside, there's a children's museum. In the backyard, a zoo. We started with the museum.
Powdered wigs are great for dress-up! Or, you know, concealing syphilis.
Those boots were made for rulin'!
Presumably, the painter of this remarkable portrait was summarily executed
Children are encouraged to place magnetic 'leeches' on this smiling patient. Science!
Once we had exhausted the children's museum, we ventured into the Schönbrunn zoo:
Cosette found a snipe!
Seeing a giant panda in downtown Vienna provoked feelings of awe and sadness
Something we came to love about Vienna: There are parks everywhere. Kids need these spaces, and they need them frequently. The Austrians really get this. This colorful, lovely playground was in the middle of the zoo.
Post-Zoo, we paid a nominal €5 for a marzipan sculpting workshop for Cosette. She was so focused, which was especially warranted because all the instructions came in German.
The final product! An Easter bunny (see its cute cocoa-tipped ears?)
All of this -- Schönbrunn Palace, the Easter market, the children's museum, the zoo, and the marzipan sculpting -- happened in the same day. If you don't find that remarkable, you're probably not a parent.
The truth is that Vienna is just remarkably livable and family friendly. Even as you're walking in the shadow of imposing, ancient (by our standards) buildings, it feels as if the city has been shaped by the needs of families. Exhausted? There's probably a park nearby. Hungry? Most restaurants will welcome your kiddos with a smile, and give them free lollipops on the way out. We felt uniquely prioritized in Vienna. We sure don't expect to be spoiled by our host cities, but Vienna has spoiled us.
“Wien, Wien, nur du allein! (Vienna, Vienna, only you alone!)”